In sewing machines for automatically applying small pockets on blue-jeans or on the front of shirts, after the small pocket has been automatically folded, a small cloth vise holds the small pocket on the garment and a plate, in which the outline of the small pocket is made out, presses the garment near the small cloth vise while translating together with the small cloth vise automatically along a predetermined path for executing the seam.
The seaming takes place near the outline of the plate of the small cloth vise which holds the pocket on the garment. In the case of a single seam, there is no difficulty in holding the pocket material to be applied since the seam is made very close to the outer edge of the plate of the small cloth vise. When two parallel seams are to be made, the plate of the small cloth vise is formed from a predetermined number of blades, according to the outline of the pocket, running parallel along the edges of the vise and capable of deviating toward the inside and outside of the vise so that the seaming always takes place in proximity to the blades. In forming the plate of the vise from blades, it is necessary to avoid an interruption of the outline in proximity, to the angles to be sewn since at such points there is a change of direction in the work feeding and as a consequence there are less opportunities to obtain a perfect quality seam as the fabric at said angles may get deformed.
Fashion evolves continuously and the clothing industry has to fit in. The current fashion imposes the application of pockets with two fixing seams where at least on one side the seams are not parallel. With this conformation of the two seams, the same above exposed problems become apparent. Heretofore, the fixing of the pocket by sewing two parallel seams has been used, but it is not possible to solve such problems by a simple translation of the blades.